A group of 24 pilgrims,
17 of whom were part of the St. Romanos Choir, a mainly Chicago area
Pan-Orthodox group of singers, under the auspices of the Society of
St. Romanos and under the direction of Dr. Peter Jermihov, left O’Hare Airport for Anchorage Friday,
August 5, 2005 for the 35th anniversary celebration of the canonization
of St. Herman of Alaska. There they joined hundreds of other pilgrims
to participate in the momentous events of the pilgrimage. They sang the
All-Night Vigil and Divine Liturgy at St. Innocent Cathedral in Anchorage,
the Divine Liturgy at Ss. Sergius & Herman of Valaam Chapel on Spruce
Island, and the All-Night Vigil and Divine Liturgy for the Feast of St.
Herman at Holy Resurrection Cathedral in Kodiak. Invited by Bishop Nikolai
after he heard them sing at the Annual Pilgrimage to St. Tikhon’s
Monastery in 2003, choir members enjoyed special opportunities as guests
of the Russian Orthodox Diocese of Alaska.
Chief among these was the heartwarming hospitality
shown by His Grace and his staff, as well as the many clergy and lay
volunteers who carted luggage, saw to hotel accommodations, taxied the
group to all the services, and cooked and served memorably delicious
meals. Above all, the cheery generosity and fellowship of The Alaskan
Orthodox was a blessing and comfort to the weary travelers, as well as
a manifestation of the living spirit of St. Herman.
On Saturday, Feast of
Transfiguration, choir members had an opportunity to sightsee on their
own or participate in a tour to the Eklutna Cemetery where the graves
are covered with spirit houses, a unique expression of how the Orthodox
Faith became a fulfillment of the spiritual ancestry of the Alaskan
natives. The graves are first covered with a blanket reminiscent of
the way one would tuck in a loved one going to sleep. After a period
of time a house is built over the grave which is designed to capture
the personality of the one who has fallen asleep in the Lord. This
effort makes each “house” unique, arrayed
in the person’s favorite colors and containing items appropriate
to the deceased, as well as religious symbols, especially the Orthodox
cross.
The tour included a trip
to the newly opened Russian Orthodox Museum in downtown Anchorage.
This museum features artifacts dating from eighteenth century Russian
America to the present day. Among the objects on display are recently
restored processional banners (possibly dating to 1794), rare icons
believed to have been written in the Sitka School of Iconography (19th
century), personal items used by St. Innocent and objects created by
native artisans. A museum café and gift
shop are also available to the eager tourist.
On Sunday, August 7, the
St. Romanos Choir flew to Kodiak. Upon arrival they were greeted by
the ubiquitous boys from St. Innocent’s Academy, a school which is a ministry under the
Bulgarian Eastern Orthodox Church. These young men were carrying luggage,
acting as guides on the school bus (a charming yet indestructible vehicle
adorned with Orthodox symbols), and later manning the skiffs for the
trip to Spruce Island and waiting tables at the banquet, as well as participating
in all the liturgical services. Choir members were transported to their
accommodations at St. Herman Theological Seminary which served as home
during the remaining days of the pilgrimage. During this time, the choir
was treated to a tour of St. Innocent’s facilities. Besides academics,
there is a strong emphasis on work (physical labor) and prayer, rather
resembling a monastic regimen. The young men are in the process of building
an addition to the structure which will provide more dorm space. They
also work at various construction-type jobs in the Kodiak area. Fr. Paisius
De Lucia serves as the director of the academy and the spiritual mentor
to its students.
The social highlight of
the Alaskan adventure was the Tuesday evening concert at Monk’s Rock coffeehouse and bookstore
in “downtown” Kodiak. The place itself is a cozy den wherein
to enjoy lattes and ice cream specialties while browsing through the
many books available. Icons, incense, crosses, even samovars are available
for purchase as well as handmade prayer ropes and wildflower note cards
made by the nuns (famous for their kayaking ventures in the manner of
St. Herman) of nearby St. Nilus Island. The concert began when Fr. Paisius,
an accomplished musician and emcee extraordinaire, led St. Innocent’s
students and staff through the evening’s program. This exuberant
performance consisted of Celtic music, Irish sea chanteys, Alaskan native
music and dances, some specialty numbers including a rendition of “Don’t
Fence Me In” ala the Andrew Sisters, and even a classical quartet.
For the latter, Bishop Benjamin delivered an impromptu performance on
violin to the delight of the audience.
After
the official entertainment ended, the block party began in the parking
lot. This time the musicians accompanied the dancing – mostly different
types of folk dances, the steps being taught on the spot by Matushka
De Lucia. Then everyone joined in the singing, a spontaneous potpourri
of folk music in different languages. Finally, the choristers settled
on their favorite liturgical pieces, and directed by Dr. Irina Jermihov,
rendered one after another in English and Slavonic, not wanting the evening
to end. Singing hymns to God in the waning twilight facing the glorious,
eternal mountains, the revelers were overwhelmed by the feeling that
St. Herman’s
legacy was alive and well in this place and in its inhabitants; and that
his spirit infused the gathering in a warm and joyous way. Sometime after
midnight, Fr. Paisius declared: “This
is the best block party we’ve ever had!”
Before departing Kodiak
on Wednesday, choir members were the guests of seminary dean, Archpriest
Chad Hatfield and Matushka Thecla for brunch in the seminary dining
room. Father thanked the group for its hard work and beautiful singing,
and for making sacrifices in order to be a part of the pilgrimage.
Speaking for the St. Romanos Choir, Dr. Jermihov insisted that the
singers did not consider the trip to be a sacrifice. Rather they saw
the experience “as a rare privilege
and a very special blessing,” he said.
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